Guide #5: Human Hair, Confused?

Posted by SWCo. on

Virgin hair, Remy hair, Temple hair. Confused yet?


The cuticle is the most important aspect to understand when buying human hair

The cuticle is the protective layer of the hair & it needs to stay intact in order to preserve/protect the hair. It's made of protein scales that overlay on top of each other to keep the hair within the hair shaft.

When these scales rise due to chemicals & ingredients that pass through the cuticle layer. In order, for color or relaxers to take, they need to get past the cuticle, which damages the hair.

Keeping the cuticle intact/closed is the #1 way to preserve the hair, prevent breakage and keep moisture in.

Remy vs Non Remy? It's all about the cuticle

Natural growing biological hair grows with the cuticle running in the same downward direction from root to tip.

When sourced hair is cut for wigs or toppers it's sold in bundles. These bundles must be kept with the cuticle running in the same downward direction to be considered remy hair


Non- Remy hair is hair that is collected from multiple sources can not guarantee that the cuticle is running in the same direction

For this reason, the hair is treated to partially remove the cuticle. If this process is not done correctly, the hair will matte and inversion will occur.

Human hair is sourced from three origins

The critical difference between them is in the denier (thickness of the hair stand) & the texture  

Chinese hair is the strongest of the denier & can withstand lots of processing. For clients, it requires the most work maintaining because of it's thickness


Indian hair is also known as temple hair because during the Mundan ceremony in Hinduism women, men & children shave their heads in order to purify their souls.

European hair is the most diffucult to source for the following reasons:

  1. The denier of European hair is the most similar to caucasion hair
  2. Only hair that be can sourced in other colors than black so less processing is needed leaving the cuticle partially intact
  3. Finest texture - feeling silk like
  4. Requires the least amount of styling maintenance

And finally, Virgin Hair?

It's a super hot term in the industry but the reality is that it is extremely difficult to find because true virgin hair means:

  1. Hair is sourced from one person
  2. It's remy (meaning cuticle goes in the same direction)
  3. Cuticle is intact meaning no processing has been done

Also, you should noted, virgin hair doesn't guarantee quality.

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